Thursday, January 11, 2018

First Days in Vienna


It’s only been a few days of being in Europe, and I already feel like I’ve been here for a long time. I’ve explored parts of Vienna, and it has been an unforgettable experience.

I had lunch with some friends at a café near St. Stephen’s Church. Our tour guide recommended it and I really wanted to go there because Mozart and Beethoven had given some performances there. I think it is really impressive, but also strange, knowing that I’m having lunch in a place where such famous and influential composers performed. In general, the buildings in that part of Vienna are very interesting, because it really seems like there is a mix of old and new buildings within the same area. I really enjoyed the walking tour we took through the city. Seeing some of Mozart’s former residences was very interesting. I remember that he was an extravagant spender when he established his career, but the buildings I saw did not really stand out as particularly luxurious when looking at them from the outside. If I hadn’t been told, I would never have guessed that Mozart lived in those places.

I also went on a tour of the catacombs under St. Stephen’s Church. It was a rather haunting experience. While some of the bishops, cardinals, and Habsburgs were buried in marked coffins, it was a little hard to look at the bones of the plague victims in the mass graves. In some places, the arm and leg bones were piled so tightly and so high that they formed a wall whose top I couldn’t see. In other places, the bones seemed to be almost carelessly thrown in heaps. However, I don’t really know about that for sure, and I don’t mean to judge. Now that I think about it, I’m not sure if I would want to pay money to visit a mass grave again. I know that it’s important to be conscious of and respect the people who are buried there, but I honestly get a little uncomfortable whenever money is involved in that. At least no one took photos.

I enjoyed the experience of going to our first concert. I really like how the performers dramatically read the Schumann letters, as actors. It kind of reminded me of opera, in that there was a mix of spoken and sung portions of the performance, combined with drama, and costumes. It wasn’t done in as large a scale as traditional types of opera, but it seemed to be larger than a regular recital. I was really impressed that the singers were able to sing while slouching in their seats. Many people are trained to maintain good posture in order to produce a good sound, but I really liked how the performers were able to sing well, even when they were seated in atypical performance positions. I also thought it was interesting that the piano accompaniment was written in a way that shows off virtuosity. A lot of times, there is a clear line between soloist and accompanist, in that the accompanist will often play very simplistic texture. However, the importance of the parts seemed to be pretty equal. There was one portion of the performance in which the singer and the pianist both had the melody, but the piano part had lots of fancy embellishments between the main notes.


I can’t wait to explore more of Europe! It’s going to be a fast-paced, and exciting month ahead!


 St. Stephen's Cathedral



 Tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral




Inside of St. Stephen's Cathedral




Concert hall where we slept through Schumann Letters performance

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